The Timeless Grace of Luxury Train Travel – A Personal Diary –

Rovos Rail

"A journey of intrigue, cultural and culinary discoveries"

With an international reputation for world-class travel experiences, Rovos Rail offers bespoke luxury train safaris through the heart of Southern Africa’s most spectacular destinations. One simply has to live it to believe it.

This is precisely what Ascot Tours general manager Lica Blomerus and financial manager Maryna Blomerus experienced first-hand.

In their own words …

“Rovos Rail is known as one of the most luxurious trains in the world. It is all about sitting back in the vintage wood-panelled coaches with a cocktail in hand, the most varied scenery imaginable unfolding beyond the windows. The cuisine and selection of South Africa’s finest wines are to die for. The ambience is one of timeless grace and high romance of African exploration. It is also the ideal place to meet interesting, well-travelled people from all over the world. We were only 26 passengers but from 11 different nationalities.

Intrigue, cultural and culinary discoveries, adventure and awe were all on the cards when Lica and I plunged into a journey too rich in texture to adequately describe. But here are some of the highlights of our time on Rovos Rail.

Our first stay was at the Palm River Lodge, a quiet picturesque location along the Zambezi River which served some of the best dishes I have ever tasted.

High tea at the epic Victoria Falls Hotel is an old-school indulgence, nibbling on savouries and cakes on the Stanley Terrace with a view of the majestic Victoria Falls Bridge and its smoke that thunders.

Helicopter ride over the Falls: This spectacular flight is known as the ‘Flight of Angels’, named after David Livingston’s famous quote, “Scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by Angels in their flight.”

Rain Forest Walk: Exploring the forest, you can feast your eyes on magnificent plant and bird life, whilst taking in the astounding beauty of thundering water and misty rainbows. The Falls is regarded as the largest sheet of falling water in the world. To get its full impact, June is a good month to visit.

Bungee jumping off the Victoria Falls Bridge: This must be the ultimate adrenaline activity, the ultimate thrill or thriller, with the most dramatic backdrop. It was also the ultimate defiance of my fear of heights. I am incredibly proud of myself. Thanks, Lica for having collected my certificate in Zambia on the other side of the bridge. This is no longer on my kick-the-bucket list!

Zambezi River Sunset Cruise: What a fine way to enjoy the vegetation and wildlife lining the Zambezi. Our jolly fellow sunset cruisers made it all the more memorable. This was followed by a riverside dinner under the stars with African drumming in the background. A perfect ending to a perfect day.

We then moved to the Victoria Falls Safari Club which overlooks the Zambezi National Park and a private waterhole with its abundance of game. The sheer magnitude of uninterrupted views of the bushveld blew me away.

We had the privilege of witnessing the spectacular sight of hundreds of vultures and marabou storks swooping down to feast on leftover meat scraps and bones from on-site restaurants.

Nothing quite beats a boma dinner and drum show in such a setting with its feasting on local cuisine followed by a lively performance of traditional drumming and singing with plenty of opportunity to join in.

Chobe River Boat Cruise: The Chobe National Park is well-known for its up to 85,000 elephants where the majority of them can be found along the river. There are also lions, leopards, buffalo and a whole host of antelope. The river is filled with big pods of hippos and some of the biggest crocodiles in Africa.

Only a birdwatcher will understand the joy of seeing a kingfisher nesting or diving into the water to catch a fish, or a fish eagle at the top of a magnificent leadwood tree, or being followed by attention-loving lilac-breasted rollers and cheeky hornbills.

The game drive through the park that followed offered a different perspective and an enhanced appreciation of the sheer size of the Chobe.

Elephant Hills Golf Estate: Visiting this 18-hole course designed by Gary Player is not a tame affair. There are warning signs on the course reading ‘Beware of Crocodiles’!

Hwange National Park Game Drive: What an opportunity to learn more about the holistic intelligence of nature’s ecosystems.

Then followed one of the world’s longest stretches of straight railway line – 114 kilometres.

Bulawayo, Matabeleland, Matobo Hills and Cave Paintings: This is possibly the most beautiful landscape I have ever seen. A pure stab of joy. The hills are entirely granite rock with extensive unnatural-looking natural rock formations, large boulders frozen in an incredible balancing act. Cecil John Rhodes was buried here and stories of settlement and battles against imperialism surround the place.

Baobab country followed.

Our only excursion-free day was mostly spent on the open-air observation deck, enjoying last chats and cocktails.

Visiting the Rovos workshop at Capital Park was our final activity. This roofed workshop of 10,000m2 is the ultimate repair and maintenance facility for any train operation. All hats off to Mr Rohan Vos, a visionary entrepreneur.

Then, back to reality. But it’s a journey that has profoundly changed the way we look at Africa. We were deeply touched and challenged. We will be back. The journey has just begun.

A special thanks to our incredibly knowledgeable, ever-cheerful guides Peace (Africa Travel Tours), Kennedy (Chobe), Nkosi (Hwange) and Kirsty (Matobo Hills) who made this a truly memorable and authentic safari experience.”

Maryna Blomerus

Maryuna Blomerus

Author

Ascot Tours | DMC

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